“Legacy”, starring Qin LAN, Han Geng, Wu Jinyan, and Nie yuan, is now on the air. It tells the story of the three sisters of the Yi family who, after growing up and making choices in the face of family changes and the collapse of mountains and rivers in turbulent times, join hands with heirs and guard their families, and interprets the wonderful story of “big love for small families” and strong feelings for family and country.
Everyone was attracted by the growth story of the three sisters of the Yi family, while I was attracted by the beautiful cheongsam pieces by pieces. The plot takes place in the Republic of China. The three sisters of the Yi family wear a cheongsam, which is very appropriate to the development of the times. It is a documentary about the change of Cheongsam in the Republic of China!
Cheongsam, the unique fashion of Oriental women
Cheongsam, also known as Qipao, is the traditional dress of Chinese women in China and the world. It is known as the quintessence of China and the national dress of women.
Cheongsam carries the development and civilization of the times. With flowing melody, natural and unrestrained painting, and strong poetic sentiment, it shows the virtuous, elegant, gentle, and beautiful temperament and temperament of Oriental women.
The simple and concise design, slim and stylish tailoring, with a unique Oriental symbolic style, highlights the softness, tenderness, and introversion of Oriental women. At the same time, it also shows the elegance and charm of sexuality, connects life and art, and spreads the charm of beauty all over the world. It has become one of the unique national characteristics of Chinese women.
With the continuous development of international exchanges, cheongsam has appeared frequently on the international fashion stage. As a formal dress with national representative significance, it has appeared on many major occasions and almost become the representative of “national dress”.
Origin of Cheongsam
Cheongsam, formed in the 1920s, prevailed in the 1930s and 1940s. Some scholars believe that its origin can be traced back to the deep clothes in the Pre-Qin and Han Dynasties. Although there are still many disputes about its definition and time of emergence, it is still one of the most gorgeous phenomena and forms in China’s long-standing clothing culture.
The revolution of 1911 abolished the monarchy and established the Republic of China. At the beginning of the Republic of China, hair was cut in braids and clothes were easy to wear. The hierarchy of crowns and clothes in the feudal dynasty was abolished. In the early twenties, “civilized new clothes” rose among urban women. Cheongsam became the most popular women’s dress after the 1920s in the Republic of China and was identified as one of the national Dresses by the government of the Republic of China in 1929.
After the 1950s, cheongsam was gradually neglected. After the 1980s, with the re-emphasis on traditional culture and the influence of film and television culture, fashion shows, beauty pageants, and so on, cheongsam gradually revived and spread all over the world.
In 1984, cheongsam was designated by the State Council as a dress for female diplomats. On May 23, 2011, the handmade cheongsam became one of the third batches of national intangible cultural heritage approved and announced by the State Council.
Cheongsam style changes
The 1920s to 1940s were the most splendid period of Chinese cheongsam. At that time, cheongsam was one of the most popular fashions for women in the upper class. With the development of the times and the changes in women’s work and life needs, the styles of cheongsam have also experienced myriad changes.
During the initial formation period of cheongsam, the overall length is relatively long, the bottom is close to the ankle, the upper jacket and lower skirt are in the majority, and the sleeveless vest with the front and back of the coat reaches the ground has gradually evolved into two fake pieces, showing the steadiness and elegance of women.
At the beginning of the twenties, the cheongsam entered a new stage. The overall length became shorter, the hem shrunk to the knee, the cuffs became shorter and smaller, and the forks on both sides were very small, which would not restrict women from walking.
In the 1930s, the cheongsam began to grow longer and the hem sagged, becoming slimmer. The cuffs were not the previous inverted large sleeves. The cheongsam sleeves that could cover the wrist were shortened to the elbows and became small cuffs that fit the arms. The waistline was designed to better reflect the beauty of women’s curves. The overall length of the body and the high forks on both sides showed the beauty of women’s style.
In the 1940s, the design of cheongsam became more daring. In order to facilitate daily life, the sleeves became shorter. At five centimeters below the shoulder, it was like falling off the shoulder. The high collar and ears became shorter gradually. It was slim and graceful without losing the style of everyone.
Nowadays, cheongsam has absorbed more Eastern and Western characteristics, and there are more bold, fashionable, and diverse designs. For modern people who like to show their personality, cheongsam can be very fashionable or full of classical charm. The choice of style respects the tradition rather than sticking to the tradition.
The choice of design and color can get rid of the shackles of monochrome, broken flowers, and plaid cloth, and then add embroidery, bronzing, hollowed out, nail beads, etc. it has its own unique charm and charm, which is more elegant than that of the past.
Nowadays most cheongsam is improved cheongsam(Beijing style and Shanghai-style)
In the late Qing Dynasty, Han women were popular in the Qipao. In the late Qing Dynasty, the Han women improved the Qipao to make the waist slightly thinner, and combined the Han elements of standing collar, left and right forks, etc. to form the Beijing-style Qipao.
In the early Republic of China, the westernized plane cutting of cheongsam was changed to three-dimensional cutting to form the Republic of China Cheongsam, which was also called Shanghai-style cheongsam, and the improved cheongsam in the Qing Dynasty was called Beijing-style cheongsam.
Beijing school and Shanghai school first appeared in the Chinese literary world during the Republic of China. “Beijing school” is relative to “Shanghai school”. Beijing school is relatively traditional and authentic; Shanghai style is standard and new, combining China and the West. Beijing style and Shanghai-style Cheongsam represent two styles of art and culture.
Beijing style cheongsam is more dignified and magnificent than the official style. The cheongsam of this sect is split into both sides, and its color is more simple and more elegant. Without more embellishments, it looks reserved and concise.
Shanghai-style Cheongsam was born in Shanghai. Due to the influence of western culture, Shanghai-style Cheongsam pays more attention to the display of body lines and the highlight of female charm. It is more standard, new, flexible, and diverse, with a strong commercial atmosphere, more beautiful and moving, and more feminine high-level beauty and style
Women’s head, neck, shoulders, arms, chest, waist, hips, legs, hands, and feet form a perfect whole with many curves. Cheongsam perfectly shows women’s characteristics.
The cultural characteristics of costumes are consistent with Chinese traditional thoughts and feelings and have a unique charm. It is hoped that cheongsam can be popular for a long time, and more women can appreciate the beauty of the East.
(Note: This article is edited and published by Guofeng wear and match. The copyright of pictures and texts belongs to the original author, and commercial use is declined.)